ALENVILLE, N.Y. On an early fall evening in 1992, Steve
Kluge and a group of high school science students from Bedford,
N.Y., were hiking toward a sandstone escarpment called the Pine
Orchard high above the Hudson River, and Mr. Kluge was preparing
them for what they would find: the past.
Or rather, he said, many pasts all coexisting together the
ancient past of deep time that had shaped the Catskills in an age
before dinosaurs, and the more recent past of the last few hundred
years. As darkness gathered, he told the students about the
landscape artists and tourists who had come here, and the great
hotel called the Catskill Mountain House now only a ghostly
presence of etched lines on the stone that had dominated the cliff
150 years ago.
The experience changed Kristin M. Woodell's life. Sitting there
on the rock, staring out into the night, the 17-year-old senior
then Kristin Johannessen suddenly knew what she wanted to do. She
would teach earth science like Mr. Kluge so that she could perhaps
reproduce the power of this moment for other young people. She made
good on the promise, too. This spring she finished her third year
teaching at her old high school, Fox Lane, about 40 miles north of
New York City in Westchester County, and has returned every fall at
Mr. Kluge's side for the senior science field trip's hallowed night
hike to the Mountain House ruins.
"It all stemmed from that trip," she said.
There were many hills and valleys seen in the paintings of the
old Hudson River School that people believed could empower or
enthrall a soul, but this one a once-remote Catskills perch 2,200
feet above the river valley was the unquestioned reigning
queen.
It was a place where picturesque scenery became something more
sublime and larger than life and capable of evoking the deepest awe.
Many of the paintings that defined the American landscape in the
19th century were produced within a few miles of this spot, and for
generations of people in the days before Mickey Mouse and supersaver
airfares, that made coming to this table-rock cliff a lifelong
dream.
Mr. Kluge, now 49, a bearded, bearish man of rumbling enthusiasm,
said he believes the power of the Pine Orchard still exists, and for
the last 15 years he has been coming back to tap it. The world, he
has told a generation of students at Fox Lane, is a riveting
detective story of ice and wind and stone and immeasurable time
and also art and beauty.
He teaches geology in part by going back to places in the
Catskills where Hudson River School pictures were painted, and
photographing his students standing as though in the frame of the
old artwork, beside the same rocks and waterfalls. The evidence of
why things are the way they are lies strewn about us, he said, and
the great intellectual game of life is to figure out how the pieces
once fit together.
"We look out and we imagine the past landscape 600 million years
ago and how it's changed since then this is a good place to do
that from," he said, patting the ancient sandstone on a recent visit
back to the Mountain House site.
"This stuff that we're sitting on is the erosional remnant of the
mountain range that existed across there," he said, gesturing east
toward the Hudson Valley. "A vast huge mountain range, snow-covered
at the top, and all this stuff is eroded off those mountains and
deposited here."
Mr. Kluge paused. He stood and turned west, and with a sweep of
his arm, as though he could actually see it, described what lay on
the other side of the Catskills in those long-ago days. "This is the
delta of a great sea that existed to the west of us," he said. "The
shore of a great sea."
The idea that a person could stand here and get a glimpse into
some place beyond ordinary time is not new. Natty Bumppo, the
leather-stockinged hero of James Fenimore Cooper's novel "The
Pioneers" (published in 1823, the same year the Catskill Mountain
House opened for business), described the view from the Pine
Orchard, and his words ultimately became a 19th-century clichι,
repeated in gushing tourist literature and overwrought nature poems
for decades afterward.
"What see you when you get there?" Bumppo is asked by another
character in the book, after Bumppo has described his hike to the
precipice.
"Creation," Bumppo answers simply. "All creation."
Embracing the Sunrise
Every day at the Catskill Mountain House began the same way
with a knock on the door, as employees made the rounds in the
pre-dawn darkness to the hotel's hundreds of guest rooms. The
sunrise was coming.
"Nothing was more inspiring than the famous sight of `all
creation,' under the first break of day," writes Roland Van Zandt in
his book "The Catskill Mountain House: Cradle of the Hudson River
School" (Black Dome Press). "Half of America must have tried at one
time or another to describe the immeasurable view with yards of
shimmering adjectives."
"Sunrising," as the act of morning witness came to be called, was
a spiritual moment for some people, a tourist memento for others.
But historians say that for at least some of the upper-class,
educated visitors to the Mountain House, sunrising was also a kind
of meditation on the nature of time. And when a young artist named
Frederic Edwin Church painted what he saw from the hotel's balcony
in 1849, that meditation is what he captured.
Church's picture, called "Above the Clouds at Sunrise," is barely
a landscape picture at all in the traditional sense, because the
land barely exists. There's a pitch pine to the right, a few rocks
to the left, and beyond that, only atmosphere, a free-floating
never-to-be-repeated essence of light and morning mist and pure
process unfolding.
"It's the dawn of creation a stirring created by light and
heat," said Gerald Carr, a consulting art historian for Berry- Hill
Galleries in New York.
Time was a hot topic in Church's day. Louis Agassiz had recently
proposed the stunning theory that much of the land was once covered
by mountains of ice. Charles Lyell, the English geologist who
inspired Charles Darwin with the notion that landscapes had
incrementally evolved over millions of years, was lecturing his way
across the United States in the 1840's. James Hutton had postulated
a theory of deep time that extended back, and into the future,
beyond human comprehension.
"It's the 19th century that invented our modern sense of time,"
said Donald Worster, a professor of American history who specializes
in environmental history at the University of Kansas. "The
breakthroughs in geology and evolution, in looking at the natural
world, were signaling a shift in consciousness we're still living
on the basis of that change."
As Mr. Kluge points out to his students, the Catskills however
glorious aren't really mountains at all, as people in Church's day
believed, but rather giant piles of mud and rock that settled here
as the real mountains the vast Acadian range to the east eroded
away beginning about 380 million years ago. The sandstone of the
Pine Orchard is really the old compressed bed of a Devonian Period
river that rushed off the Acadian western slope, altering everything
in its path.
Teaching and Inspiring
The chain of art and stone and time extends in other directions
from this place notably to the State University of New York at
Oneonta.
Out of a typical class of 20 to 25 earth science majors in any
given year, at least one or two are from Fox Lane High School,
university officials say. Ms. Woodell studied here, and Mr. Kluge,
who stays in touch and follows the careers of many of his former
students, can rattle off a dozen others.
"Over the years, Kluge has really inspired students to pursue
this," said Prof. James R. Ebert, who has taught geology at Oneonta
since 1985. "I think he suggests Oneonta because our philosophy is
similar to his that science is a process, not a body of facts to
be memorized."
Professor Ebert has also used art from the Hudson River School to
teach sedimentology and historical geology because the artists
usually were so careful to get the details right. But even more than
that, he said he likes to talk about the old landscape art in his
classes as a way of impressing on his students that scientific field
work should be thought of as more than just an intellectual or
academic enterprise.
"The point is to let them know there are other aspects beyond
science aesthetic dimensions," he said. "Geologists get to be in
the field and visit beautiful places that artists have painted."
Mr. Kluge's loves of science and art and the past are also
connected with family. He grew up in Ardsley, N.Y., and his father,
a high school math teacher and later the principal of Ardsley High
School, first brought him camping here in the late 1950's or early
1960's. He remembers the hikes along the artists' trails, and the
canoe rides on North Lake at night when the beavers would slap their
tails on the water, and how dinners were cooked on the Coleman stove
by the campfire.
The night hike to the Mountain House, though, was something he
invented, beginning with the first Fox Lane class field trip in
1986. Another ritual that has become part of the trip is that the
teachers and chaperons always cook and serve dinner to the students
at camp before the Mountain House hike. (The hotel was closed in
1942, and the state burned it to the ground in 1963 after it had
become a dilapidated menace.)
"We bring our sleeping pads, or sleeping bags when it's cold, for
an hour or two of meteor and satellite watching, identifying stars
and constellations, and watching Taurus rise above the eastern
horizon in that eternal pursuit of the Seven Sisters across the
autumn sky," he said. "And we usually spot a porcupine or skunk on
the way back to camp."
Ms. Woodell, now 26, said she had already vowed that the
Catskills trip and especially the night hike to the Mountain House
would continue. When Mr. Kluge decides to retire, she said, she
stands prepared to take it over.